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Puppy Pack
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following document and other Puppy Pack information.
WELCOME
This puppy pack has been compiled by experienced breeders and produced by
the Hungarian Vizsla Club to give you general help, advice and a welcome to
the Vizsla world. Your new puppy will bring you lots of joy in the years
ahead. He will be a companion and reliable friend to you and your family.
However this doesn't just happen; you need to put in effort too and that is
where this puppy pack should help. We have assembled basic tips from
bringing puppy home, the first days in his new home, to showing and sporting
activities. If it stimulates you to further your ambitions there are plenty
of good dog books available that can increase your knowledge and
understanding.
When choosing a particular breed of dog it is important to consider the
characteristics of that breed and whether or not those characteristics
compliment your own lifestyle. The Hungarian Vizsla belongs to the HPR (Hunt
Point Retrieve) group of gundogs and working instincts remain strong in the
breed. Even when kept solely as a pet the Vizsla requires training, regular
and substantial exercise, mental stimulation, and companionship. If you are
not prepared to make the commitment to provide this environment the Vizsla
Club would urge you to consider a less demanding pet.
FIRST DAYS.
1) Breed description
2) Getting ready
3) Bringing puppy home
4) Feeding
5) Housetraining
6) Collar and Lead
7) Vaccinations and Worming
8) Identification
MOVING ON
1) Puppy Socialisation
2) Exercise
3) Feeding
4) Chewing
5) General Health Care
6) First Aid
7) Activities – Fun and Competition
8) Useful Reading
9) Useful Contact Numbers
10) Welfare
(1) BREED DESCRIPTION
The Vizsla is a most eye-catching dog with his wonderful smooth russet coat.
He stands between 22.5-25 inches (57-64cms) at the withers weighing
approximately 55-66LBS (25-30kgs), the bitches being slightly smaller at
21-23.5 inches (53-60cms) weighing approximately 48-55LBS (20-25kgs).
Most importantly he is a dog without exaggerations; a medium sized medium
boned dog where coarseness & bulk should be avoided.
A Vizsla should have a lean rather than fleshy head, moderately wide in
skull with a moderate stop, the depression between the eyes and forehead.
The foreface should taper slightly into a squared off muzzle with lips that
have no tendency to being fleshy or pendulous like a bloodhound. The nose is
brown. The eyes are slightly oval in shape not deep set or prominent, of a
shade slightly darker than the coat colour although this can take up to two
years for the colour to fully establish. A Vizsla's ears should be thin
rather than fleshy, of a rounded V shape, set on moderately low and lying
close to the cheeks. The head is carried on a moderately long neck, free of
pendulous skin under the neck, which would give a 'houndy' appearance.
Vizslas stand on good straight legs with tight rounded feet; have a fairly
broad chest with plenty of depth and a prominent breastbone. The distance
from withers (the highest point of the shoulder) to the base of chest just
behind the elbows should equal that to the distance from base of chest to
ground. The body should have fairly well rounded ribs with a short powerful
loin (waist). From the side you should see a slight tuck up to the belly.
His hindquarters should be well muscled without the exaggerated angulation
of say a greyhounds framework. His tail, normally docked by 1/3, should be
carried horizontally when he moves. A full tail reaches to the hock and
tapers to a very fine tip and care must be taken to avoid damage to the end.
His glossy coat is dense & feels greasy to the touch. Small white marks are
acceptable on the chest and feet but larger marks are considered as faults.
(2) GETTING READY
When you have found a breeder with a suitable puppy, have paid your deposit
and are eagerly waiting to bring him home, you can spend time getting
everything ready.
The breeder should have given you an indication of the food your pup will be
eating when he leaves. Buy sufficient for his first few days’ meals, as it
is essential you keep to this diet initially, as your puppy will have enough
adjustments to make without a change of food. He will require chew proof
bowls for both food and water, stainless steel is ideal but a heavy non-tip
one for water will save you lots of mopping up!
Beds come in all shapes and sizes, ‘scrubbable’ plastic, beanbags, or soft
foam. To begin with I usually advise a strong cardboard box, as long as it
has not been used for chemicals nor has staples in it. The cardboard is
warm, chewable, and when he outgrows it you can get a bigger one. Vetbed is
a synthetic fleece very useful for lining beds, easily washable and snug to
sleep on when you have just lost your family.
Collars and leads are not essential at this stage.
Your garden will have to be checked to make sure it is escape proof, and
that there are no dangers in the area. For example if you have a pond make
sure it is safely fenced in. Puppy must have a safe area indoors where he
can't get into any harm; use an area where you can leave him unsupervised
when necessary and make sure it is clear of kitchen chemicals and any
electricity cables. Valuable rugs and breakable ornaments are best removed
for the early weeks.
A cage or playpen can be very useful but must never be used as punishment.
It should be a secure haven where the pup knows he will be safe, so use it
only to confine puppy at night or when you can't watch him e.g. cooking
times when he could be in danger. To begin with he may well resent the
confinement but re-assure him and he will soon accept it.
(3) BRINGING PUPPY HOME.
Firstly this needs two of you, one to drive the other to take charge of
puppy. Soft towels to sit him on, paper towels, newspaper and a carrier bag,
in case he is travel-sick, are essential. Unless absolutely necessary do not
stop on the journey home and never allow the puppy a toilet break at a busy
service station or on the side of the road. Imagine his terror if he got
away from you, apart from the possibility of picking up infections in such
an environment. He is quite capable of travelling a few hours to his new
home and much safer to wee in his secure new surroundings.
When you arrive home let him have a walk around to investigate his new area.
Show him his water bowl and new bed. He will probably arrive home due for a
feed but don't worry if he doesn't eat too well for the first day or two.
Remember he has lost his eating chums.
Rest is essential. Young puppies need plenty of rest, so when he is tired he
must be allowed to sleep. Children and visitors must not disturb him - just
as they wouldn't a new baby. If he falls asleep in the middle of the floor
gently put him in his bed and he will soon learn to go there when he wants
to sleep.
(4) FEEDING
You should have purchased the necessary food as detailed by his breeder. It
is essential that you do not change his diet but keep him to the meals he is
used to. He has enough new things to get used to without his food being
different as well. Remember he may well be quite picky about eating for his
first few meals but this is quite normal, just encourage him and he will
soon be munching his way through everything.
(5) HOUSETRAINING
Housetraining is usually easy with Vizslas. They are a naturally clean dog,
but just like a baby can't go very long between toilet breaks. If you
remember to put puppy outside after meals; when he wakes up or looks
unsettled; and every half-hour in between for the first few days he will
quickly be clean. Go outside with him and when he performs praise him, he
will then be encouraged to 'go' outside. It is an idea to put some newspaper
by the back door and around his bed in case of accidents. The playpen/cage
can help here, as pups don't like to dirty their own areas and will hold on
and tell you they need to go. Don't leave water bowls down overnight, he
will just tank up and need to wee sooner!
(6) COLLAR AND LEAD
As puppy will not be going 'Walkies' until after his inoculations, he will
only require a soft collar that he can get used to. It will be strange
having something around his neck so he may well object and scratch so it is
important not to leave him alone in case he gets caught up on something and
strangles himself. By fastening a lead and letting him drag it around he
will quickly get used to the tugs as he steps on it so that when you pick up
the end to walk him he won't buck and twist but should happily follow you.
(7) VACCINATIONS AND WORMING.
Before your puppy goes out into public places he has to complete a course of
vaccinations. Your Vet is the best person to give you advice on when he
should be inoculated and for what, depending on particular risks in your
area. Ring to book an appointment. Pups should not be taken into general
surgery as the public always wants to pet them regardless that their own dog
may have a contagious skin condition or kennel cough! This first visit also
gives the vet a chance to look over your pup and re-assure you he is in good
health. After the first jab you need to keep him secure in the garden until
his second jab after which you still can't take him into public places for a
further 7-10 days.
Your puppy should have had a worming course before he left his breeder. You
should be given a certificate to this effect, also advising you what
medication was used and when he requires his next treatments. When you give
the next doses, take care to collect all excreta for 48 hours and dispose of
sensibly. Strict hygiene must be observed throughout worming treatments,
especially important where children are concerned.
(8) IDENTIFICATION.
By law a dog must wear a collar and identity disk in public places. This is
the traditional method of identification, but nowadays you can also find
puppies being tattooed or micro-chipped. ‘Micro-chipping’ requires the
insertion of a minute data chip - with a unique, identifiable number - under
the skin. It does require specialist equipment both to insert and read the
chip and it tends to be that only vets/dog wardens have this equipment
available. Tattooing, either in the ear or groin can be read by any one and
will be identifiable by the National Register on 01206 397510. If neither of
the new methods appeal to you, do make sure you have an engraved disc on his
collar with your telephone number and name. More importantly never let your
dog roam.
MOVING ON
(1) PUPPY SOCIALISATION
You may be lucky and have in your area classes where pups can learn social
behaviour. Your vet would be a good place to ask. Pups need to learn about
visitors, other dogs, how to behave in an acceptable well balanced manner
and not just grow up isolated and shy of people and other dogs. They also,
like children, benefit from rules so don't allow them to do something as a
puppy that you won't allow as an adult. If you can't find any puppy classes,
make sure that you take him out into busy areas where he can come across
things he doesn't have at home. If you don't have children try standing by a
school when the children come out, he will soon get used to things if he is
given the opportunity to be in different situations. Never put him at risk
or frighten him, always treat new things quietly and calmly and he will
trust you.
(2) EXERCISE
You probably chose a Vizsla because you like plenty of exercise but do
remember, a puppy - like a toddler - gets tired and it is important not to
over tire a youngster. The practice of walking him until he's tired will
only have the opposite effect; he will be so wound up he won't be able to
settle! A couple of exercise periods with plenty of time to recharge his
batteries are best. Never take a young pup for a long strenuous walk, out
jogging with you, or running beside a bike.
Over-exercise is dangerous to the correct formation of growing bones and
could damage him for life by putting excessive strain on his young
framework. Exercise can be gradually increased as he grows and matures.
Remember if you exercise in public places that he must be under proper
control and it is your duty to clean up after him if he fouls. There is
nothing worse than the sight of discarded dog mess that someone is too lazy
or selfish to clean up. It could also cost you a hefty fine. Always carry
some plastic bags ready for scooping up.
(3) FEEDING
Your puppy came home with a diet sheet and instructions for his meals but
quite quickly will need the amounts increased. What was sufficient at 8
weeks will not be at 9-10 and you will gradually increase the amounts to
keep him well covered but not fat. At about 3 months he will require his
food divided into 3 meals rather than 4 and at about 6 months he can have
just 2 meals a day. Then he will be eating his maximum intake and this will
continue until he has finished growing. A healthy dog will be fed according
to condition. There are plenty of high quality feeds on the market,
frozen/tinned meats, dried complete foods; the choice is yours, what ever
works best for you and your dog. Just remember to make any changes gradually
and always have a bowl of fresh water available.
(4) CHEWING
Most puppies chew. They need to chew to ease their gums when they are
teething so it is up to you to ensure it is not your best handbag but
something you have provided! Be realistic, if you leave him alone and he
gets bored he will find mischief so you need to provide something to occupy
his lively mind. Hide a few different toys each day so you vary his
playthings. Provide a large sterilised bone or chew but if you have more
than one dog make sure they don't argue over anything. My pups have grocery
boxes to dig up, sit in, chew and climb on so they have lots of fun whilst
keeping out of mischief. If all else fails there are plenty of chew stopping
preparations and sprays to give a bitter taste to your nibbled areas.
(5) GENERAL HEALTH CARE
EYES- check daily removing any discharge with tissue or cotton wool soaked
in water. Pups eyes may be runny when they are teething but any sign of
infection or inflammation needs veterinary advice.
EARS - the Vizsla has a clean hair-free canal, cleaning is simple. Wipe away
any dust/wax with soft tissue taking care never to poke into the ear. If
required there are plenty of ear cleaners on the market. If there is any
discharge, inflammation or smell, see the vet.
NAILS - check nails & if necessary trim taking care not to cut the vein.
Overgrown nails are uncomfortable to walk on. If you are nervous about doing
it yourself your vet will do it for you.
TEETH - hard biscuits & chews help to keep teeth clean but you can get a dog
toothbrush and give a weekly clean. This is not necessary until after the
2nd set of teeth have come through and the gums have settled down.
SKINCARE - the Vizsla coat is easy to keep clean, a rubber hound glove
removes the loose hair & dirt, and a soft brush flicks out the dust and
gives a good shine. Bathing is unnecessary unless he has rolled in
something! Shampoo removes the natural oils in his coat.
ANAL GLANDS - if your pup rubs his bottom on the grass or keeps chewing at
it, it could mean his anal glands are blocked. Emptying the glands can help
this; your vet will be able to show you how to do this.
FACT SHEET ABOUT MYOSITIS (muscle inflammation)
Generally the vizsla has always been considered to be a healthy breed.
Responsible breeders adhere to a code of conduct which requires that they
breed only from vizslas that are of sound temperament, hip-scored,
physically healthy and free from known hereditary diseases.
This approach has always worked very well indeed and it has helped to ensure
that a vizsla usually lives a long, strong, happy and healthy life.
From about 2004 onwards observers began to note that a number of young
vizslas were succumbing to a swallowing disorder which had not previously
been clinically recognised. “Myositis and Dysphagia in Hungarian Vizslas” is
now the subject of a veterinary research project
The condition is still very uncommon (and your puppy is MOST unlikely to be
a victim) but, for the purposes of the research project, responsible
breeders are now including this fact sheet in their puppy packs so that new
owners can be made aware of what to look out for (the disease is so unusual
that many local vets may not recognise it either!)
The signs of our illness are problems with swallowing - both food and water
- excessive drooling, and usually also muscle wasting around the head.
Typical onset is usually in adolescence or maybe up to about two years of
age and frequently there is an acute episode of retching, gagging, choking,
dysphagia and hypersalivation. Sometimes the onset is more insidious with
inefficient and messy eating and drinking being noted. Often there is an
initial diagnosis of megaoesophagus. Fatigue, aspiration pneumonia and a
stiffness of gait are other common findings. The illness is believed to be
immune mediated. With prompt diagnosis and treatment it can usually be well
controlled.
The disease is more fully described on this website
http://www.vizslamyositis.blogspot.com/
Once again we emphasise that as responsible breeders we care about the
future health and well-being of our lovely breed. We are including this fact
sheet for information purposes only and do not want you to worry
unnecessarily. Please keep this sheet and if over the months and years to
come you hear of any vizsla that has succumbed to myositis, or other immune
mediated illness, then please ask the owner to contact those in the breed
who are conducting the research.
Authored in March 2008 by Di Addicott 01576 202258 diane@murrayfield.wanadoo.co.uk
(6) FIRST AID
There are several good books available on treating emergencies and general
first aid in the dog. I would recommend you buy one and keep it handy. It is
always reassuring to have a good manual/basic knowledge book on your shelves
to refer to. There are two conditions I would draw your attention to, both
potentially fatal, they are heat stroke and bloat.
Heat stroke - never leave dogs in cars in the heat. Sadly, it does happen
and on a warm day the temperature, even with windows slightly open, rises
incredibly quickly. A dog cannot lose body heat and dies a most unpleasant
death in a very short time. If you don't believe it, sit in a car in the sun
yourself. It quickly becomes unbearably hot and, to put it bluntly, that
heat will cook a dog - but not before it has suffered terribly first. The
simple answer is not to leave dogs in cars. A dog suffering from sunstroke
needs to be cooled quickly by sponging it with cool water and keeping it in
the shade until veterinary help arrives.
Bloat, or gastric dilation and torsion can also be fatal. This emergency is
caused by sudden build-up in the stomach of gas/fluid, the stomach twists
giving symptoms of sudden stomach swelling with severe pain and collapse.
The dog will die if not treated by a vet at once. Bloat is not common but
can occur in larger breeds; it is thought that large feeds of dried foods,
immediately before exercise are a possible trigger and it occurs mostly in
dogs over 2 years old.
(7) ACTIVITIES
Obedience - of all the competitive pastimes, obedience is the most natural
step. After basic obedience classes where most people take their dogs for
basic behaviour, many classes have knowledgeable trainers where you can
learn more advanced exercises and compete enthusiastically. The Vizslas may
be in the minority against Border Collies and the Shepherd breeds but he can
compete at the highest level with patience and understanding.
Agility is the race around a course, jumping obstacles against the clock
event. Many clubs train owners and dogs in this as it suits a Vizsla’s
attitude and temperament just fine. He is naturally agile.
Showing - for fun you can try the exemption show often combined with fetes
during summer, as well as pedigree classes they have several fun classes
too.
If you enjoy it, find your local ring-craft club (try the library) and get
some instruction. Showing is a hobby where success comes from devoting time
effort and money.
If you are seriously competitive put your trust in a reliable breeder with a
reputation for selling good stock, tell them you want to show. Remember win
or lose you always go home with the best!
Working- the Vizsla is bred for hunting & has natural ability that can be
enhanced to the highest level. From the rough shooters dog to the field
trial competitor he can do the lot, his ability varies only according to
your time and patience. Training classes are the place to begin progressing
to working tests. The Hungarian Vizsla Club can help with working & showing.
Contact the secretary for details.
(8) USEFUL READING
THE HUNGARIAN VIZSLA by Gay Gottlieb. A complete reference book on the
breed. Printed by Kingdom Books ISBN 185279104-7
DOG OWNERS HOME VETERINARY HANDBOOK by D.G.Carlson & J.M.Gifin. Published by
Howell book house.
HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES by G.Macleod MRCVS DVSM. Published by Daniels.
(9) USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS
Your Breeder
Your Vet
Vizsla Club Secretary 01908 373 097
Kennel Club 0171 629 5828
Kennel Club Registrations 0171 493 6651
Animal Health Trust 01638 661 111
Countryside Alliance 01719 284 742
Blue Cross 0171 835 4224
RSPCA 01403 64181
National Canine Defence League 0171 837 0006
PDSA 01952 290 999
Dogs Home Battersea 0171 622 3626
Dogs Home Birmingham 0121 643 5211
Dogs Home Wood Green Essex 0176 383 8329
Dogs Home Lothian Scotland 0131 660 5842
National Tattoo Register 01206 397 510
(10) Welfare
Sadly to say, on occasions, Vizslas sometimes need to be re-homed and the
Vizsla Welfare takes on this daunting task. Sometimes, through no fault of
their own, and occasionally from homes that have failed to tune in to the
Vizsla frequency, dogs will need to be found new caring homes by the welfare
co-ordinators.
If you could help, or know someone who would be interested in giving
assistance, our welfare co-ordinator would be delighted to hear from you.
She is:
Mrs. Sue Millson (Tonbridge in Kent) 01892 834178
This article has been written by Liz Harper & produced by Peter Barlow
If you have downloaded this article and found it useful, a donation to
Hungarian Vizsla Welfare would be very much appreciated.
Donations should be sent to:
The Hungarian Vizsla Club Welfare
c/o Mrs Sue Millson
The Oak Tree Bungalow
Five Oak Green Road
Five Oak Green
Nr TONBRIDGE
Kent TN12 6RL
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